Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean with a length of 149 miles and a maximum width of 62 miles. The islands large central plain has the Kyrenia range to the north rising to slightly over 3,000 feet while the southern Troodos reach 6,562 feet at Mt Olympos. Southern Cyprus, which is 60% of the island, had aspirations to become part of greater Greece however this was not to be and so the south is now the independent state of Cyprus within the European Union. The northern 40% is claimed by Turkey and certainly the 48,000 Turkish troops stationed there will ensure there is no change in the immediate future. The island is divided by what is referred to as “The Green Line” which derives from the occasion when a British intermediary used green ink to draw a line dividing the old capitol of Nicosia. These days the border crossing for visitors such as ourselves has become very easy but none the less it is interesting to pass through no mans land where the UN rules and emerge in a quite different country and culture within 300 yards. Cyprus is said to be at a crossroads between east and west and by virtue of its position has long been of great strategic importance. Richard Lion Heart and his Crusaders had their base here and indeed Britain still retains two military bases in the south. For my part I find the island intriguing: 60% of the island clearly feels like Greece: food, religion, language and outlook are all Greek and very charming however vestiges of past invaders are everywhere not least the British who as well as retaining military bases have left, to the pleasure of both Greek and Turk, traditional telephone and post boxes that still bare the initials of reigning monarchs of the day. In earlier times Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Crusaders, Venetians and, what Cypriots refer to as “Terrible Turks” all left their mark which leaves us all the more to explore ! History here is complicated but fascinating and somehow gives me the impression that the islands story is far from told. The Turkish mainland is just 43 miles away and on a clear day her distant mountains simmer over the turquoise sea while Syria is just 59 miles away. Athens on the other hand is fully 497 miles distant . Though the majority of Cyprus is Greek in every possible way Greece is not eager to adopt her along with the responsibility of her defence in the face of a dominant Turkey. It might be said Cyprus lies in a rather precarious position beyond what may truly be regarded as Europe. With the help of local experts we will explore both sides of the Green Line. In the republic of Cyprus (The south) we shall discover the history of Paphos before exploring the Akamas Peninsula from where we make our way to the historic village of Kakopetria and the delightful Mill Hotel – our base to walk in the Troodos range. It is here that we will briefly regain the trans Europe E4 path that starts in Gibraltar, runs through ten countries before wynding it’s way through Crete and Cyprus. Some say the Turks have the best of the islands scenery. Though this is debatable the long spine of the Keryenia range does make a spectacular backdrop to the charming little town of Keryenia with it’s Venetian harbour and castle. It almost seems as if at some point in history every empire has sheltered a navy here and so it is perhaps not surprising to learn that one of the oldest vessels ever to be recovered from the sea was the “Keryenia Ship” which sank here around 300 BC. Our base in Keryenia is a very lucky find. Lawrence Durrell’s home of “Bitter Lemons” is just a couple of miles away on the hillside where these days we find Deirdre Guthrie and her friends with their lovely old traditional homes perched on the hillside. Deirdre, though a Scot by blood, was born here and spends her life capturing the colours of Kyrenia in her art though I might add she is also an accomplished chef which is rather nice for us ! With her friends on the hillside Deirdre provides charming rooms with private facilities and of course staying here will give us the opportunity to learn something about life here in what is now Turkish Cyprus. Our walks will be led by another of Deirdre’s neighbours – John Chawner of Kyrenia Range Walks. John and his wife have lived here for over a decade and provide not only stunning hikes into the mountains but delicious lunches on the trail. A five minute stroll down the hillside from our “home” sits the enchanting 13th century Abbey of Bellapais and just a short drive away is the stupendous castle of St Hilarion – both are places we shall explore. As our adventure draws to a close we will cross the “Green Line” and return to Larnaka for our Farewell Dinner and a good nights rest in our comfortable hotel before homeward travel next day from Larnaka International Airport.